Is Normal for a Airsoft Motor to Get Really Warm on a 11.1v Battery

Loftier speed motor vs. high torque motor. What does it mean to you? It's all nigh armatures per turn. Just I will spare you lot all the tech blubbering and go down to what matters. Lets start with questions that will help…..

i. Your spring- how big is it? Is information technology over a M120? Or is it nether? A skillful high speed motor like SHS or "Matrix" will handle
a M130 fifty-fifty with depression voltage but a high torque volition practise it with no trigger lag and no "wind upwards".

2. Power source – If y'all have or use a 11.1V lipo, NO loftier speed motor! It will audio awesome and throw bullets out that will scare all your friends. But alas your AEG will eat gears and pistons every time you use it unless you have deep pockets and and no girlfriend. I recommend a 9.6V NiMih MAX with a high speed motor and if your spring is nether a M120. High torque motors are amp hogs merely the only way to become with a LiPo. Even low tension springs work well with a LiPo in the 11.1V camp or really whatsoever voltage.

iii. Semi-car or by and large full-machine? A high speed motor is very efficient with juice on the O-telescopic compared to a high torque. The cost? It's an inductive stage that lasts 4 times longer than a loftier torque on average. That means semi-machine will burn it up very fast. Oftentimes in ane game too. If you do not shoot full auto all the
time stay abroad from a high speed motor. A high torque has piffling problem on semi all the fourth dimension. It will get hot, but not hot enough to hurt it.

4. Why do I need a high anything motor? Often for the average Airsofter a stock motor is a great mid-level motor. It can do a little of both, and only like most stock motors they are good enough to pass muster. However a good high torque motor will breath new life into whatever AEG. It's the soul of your gun really. It's non a purchase you will regret ( unless you get a Guarder high speed).

What is the most over-looked part of performance?

Buckings:

Information technology's more than a rubber sleeve. It'due south the range, consistency and a huge corporeality of your compression in your AEG. When most people do an upgrade on their AEG, 9 times out of 10 they completely overlook this critical component. The bucking is one of the only things that yous get what you lot pay for in Airsoft. More money = improve bucking. However, some brands only have a few that they are comparable and compatible with.

I would say ninety% of OEM buckings are trash. They leak, they have incorrect pitch, and they sit down inside the hop-up loosely. The exceptions are Real Sword, TM, VFC, and CYMA.

The worst being ICS, KWA (G2X), A&K, and K&P. Here is a piddling help on quality replacement buckings just off the top of my head:

Guarder clear (50 degree)
Lonex (50 caste)
Prometheus Purple
G&K Green
Madbull Bluish
TruSight TruHop
Modify
… there are more out there, of form.

Don't underestimate the performance of a good bucking. It tin can turn your AEG into a whole new animal. It does three jobs in your AEG and tin evangelize solid functioning or be a massive headache.

Accept you ever noticed that fifty-fifty a perfectly shimmed AEG volition get a "hot grip" (i.east. a hot motor) during extended periods of semi auto burn down? Well there is a very complicated and mathematical reason why. When your motor offset receives amperage or current it actually converts DC power into Air conditioning in the windings of the motor. When this happens, for nigh 1/five – ane/tenth of a second, the motor is an anterior load and not a resistive load. That means information technology is putting amperage and voltage "out of phase" and returning "muddied ability" to your battery. While your motor is in an inductive state it is drawing about 30-l amps depending on your shim chore, mechanical load (or resistance), quality of motor, your motors ratio (armatures per turn) and battery cell type.

On the semi-auto setting you are hitting this anterior loftier every single time you pull the trigger. Since the inductive state is only the start 1/5 – 1/10th of a second of the motors' run time, the full auto setting will hit the loftier amperage of the inductance and when the power in back in stage it becomes a regular resistive load meaning its merely drawing 10-xx amps. Substantially you become more shots with less amperage. What does all this hateful in layman's terms? It means full automobile is a lot easier on your AEG than semi-auto. Information technology is also A LOT improve for the battery, motor and trigger switch.

If you have dry cell batteries (NiCad, NiMih) and use mostly semi motorcar, your batteries volition final almost a year, or maybe 2. They are not tolerant of high amperage draws and dirty ability return. But they will last twice equally long if not more than if you use generally full automobile. Lipos don't care about this, however.

MOSFET'due south: FETs will not help with this. 90% of Airsoft MOSFETs volition actually decrease the reliability of your AEG. If yous empathise electronics and practise the math, the best MOSFET on the market will only give you 75% of the potential power of your battery. Meaning they make the circuit more resistive. Resistance = heat

To epitomize: semi car is non as good for you on your AEG equally full auto is.

If so, your motor may but need a adept cleaning/servicing. To get started, yous will need a pencil eraser, a razor blade, and fine grit sandpaper.

Take the brushes out of the motor (they are the metallic blocks held in by a spring loaded wire on the plastic end of the motor), practise not lose which one goes on which side.
Cut the pencil eraser into a long block that fits through the brush's old slot on the motor. (Sometimes it helps to stick
the modified pencil eraser on a paper clip wire or some matter) make certain you can achieve the armature through the slot. (This is the copper colored shaft.) It'southward important not to push hard or the eraser will fleck onto your armature.
Rotate the motor with the eraser in place. Pull out the eraser. You volition encounter that the terminate is very dirty. Have the razor
blade and cut the muddy end off the eraser. Echo steps one-3 until the eraser is no longer dirty.
Wrap a piece of sandpaper around a pencil and sand on the brushes until the blackness is gone. Friction match the "roundness"
of the end of the brush where information technology meets the armature. That is the simply office you need to sand.
Reassemble the motor and put a few drops of oil in the ball bearings of the motor. Your motor will work like it is brand new! Best of all, you can do this yourself for complimentary!

Here's my review on the G&M replica 1-4x Elcan SpecterDR. I did a off-white corporeality of research before purchasing this. I came away with a few of import tid-bits, namely: there are but 4 makers of replica Elcan'southward out there. Well-nigh of them do not accept a true 1 – 4x throw lever. Most are likewise strictly straight 4x. Most of them likewise do not have elevation adjustments. Most have poor eye relief. The Yard&G version rated all-time out of them all per reviews, and it features a true one-4x throw lever,
elevation adjustments, and excellent centre relief. I've spent a lot of time and many thousands of rounds behind an Elcan, and then the replica has a lot to live upwards to in my book. Lets run into how she performed…

Lets showtime with the box. Who cares nearly the box? I'g non going to waste time on describing the box, it's irrelevant to the function of the optic. Information technology goes into the trash with the rest of the boxes.

So lets skip to the optic. Commencement affair you will observe when picking this up is that this is a heavy unit. It actually might weigh a tiny bit more than the existent Elcan, but without a scale I can only speculate. Overall information technology feels well constructed and out together. The cease is a semi-gloss black paint that seems to be applied pretty evenly, whereas the real Elcan uses a hard coat grayness anodizing. Time volition tell how long the paint will concord up in the field.

The optic ships with a spare fix of backup iron sights (these mount on pinnacle of the sight). Information technology should exist noted that if y'all so cull, you can attach a replica Trijicon RMR or Dr. Optics sight on top too. A pair of batteries and a overnice total colour instruction sheet is also included.

The 1000&Grand features a integral replica ARMS base mount. There are some slight differences between this and the real mount. The major ones beingness
the lack of trades and a dissimilar cross bar on the underside. I also noted that it wasn't Mil-Spec and thus had a picayune slop in it when affixed to a picatinny rail. This is pretty common with all Chinese Arms mountain clones, I've institute. The easy fix is to just apply a few layers of electrical tape to the underside of the mount to make information technology snap on snugly. Trouble solved.

The post-obit pictures shows a few minor differences between the 2 units in the body construction. One affair to annotation is that the replica unit uses a very cheap string to lanyard the battery cap to the chief trunk. I bankrupt this within seconds of piffling with information technology. Easily replaced, however, and isn't a big detractor. The replica Elcan does not have much in the mode of markings, other than the battery cap and a few circles and symbols.

Frontal view. The K&Thou replica has a slightly smaller objective lens. 1 thing that is very, very apparent is that the replica does not pass through any light at all. looking from the forepart of the scope inward, information technology'due south pitch black in there. The real Elcan collects huge amounts of light, and in truth there isn't much else out at that place in the real steel optics market that compares to how much low-cal the Elcan grabs.

Which brings up another item: the field of view and effulgence of the K&M Elcan are significantly less than the existent deal. I would say that the real Elcan has a 50 – 75% larger field of view than the replica. Information technology's also 4 times as bright. For some reason the replica but doesn't pass through a lot of light – which is probably the biggest
drawback of all. That'southward not to say it'due south terrible – in fact, it is better than comparable clone ACOG's. It likewise has fantastic eye relief. Unlike most magnified replica eyes I've owned where you have to literally brew your face up against the rear lens to see through it, this replica has nigh iii″ of beautiful middle relief.

In that location are some distinct differences in the reticules. The G&K has a very similar reticule to an ACOG. I'g sorry to say my photos of the reticules don't practise either unit of measurement justice – they were very hard shots to prepare and I had to devise all sorts of contraptions to make things marginally marshal so I could try to take the photos.

Bones operation of the unit of measurement is simple: With the lever in the rearward position you are in 1x magnification. With the lever in the forrard position, yous get 4x magnification. It should be especially noted that the 1x is not a truthful non-magnified view such as one finds with an Aimpoint or Eotech that use a flat glass panel. In this regard, an

Aimpoint or Eotech will be somewhat faster to use in CQB due to their true non-magnified style. An Elcan's beauty is its ability to compensate for both long range and close-in distances with the flip of a lever. It also takes up less track space than a comparably ready up cherry dot with a 3x or 4x magnifier.

Additionally, the Thousand&Thou Elcan offers 2 reddish dots (green and red) that tin be switched on in either 1x or 4x. In 1x way, this acts as a bit of a carmine dot (once again, not a true ruby dot). It is very similar to the Bindon Aiming Concept (BAC) as applies to Trijicon ACOG sights. If you lot aren't familiar with the BAC, Wikipedia is your friend. Conversely, the real Elcan offers just a crimson dot, simply also the selection of illuminating the unabridged cross-hairs too, which is a pretty nifty feature in the dark.

A big plus is that in 4x, the dot does not go a huge blob such every bit in replica ruby-red dot/magnifier setups. It's yet squeamish and pocket-sized.

There is some minor ghosting when the carmine dot is on its brightest setting – not as bad every bit some sights I've seen though. This too, varies, depending on how bright it is outside – in full sunlight it isn't noticeable at all. I'm happy to say that the dot size is dead center in the crosshair, and appears to be squeamish and sharp. I guess information technology to be about a ane or 1.5 MOA dot. The ruddy dot is more visible during the daylight hours. I found the light-green dot to not exist sufficiently bright plenty to employ during the day. information technology does work nicely for low light or dark atmospheric condition, and coupled with an on board weapon calorie-free being used, it makes the reticule easier to see.

I don't know how long the battery lasts in the replica, and oasis't found whatsoever sources that state it anywhere. It uses the fairly common CR2032 type batteries, which is different than the existent deal. The real Elcan has an average bombardment life of 3000 hours, but I doubt the G&1000 i has anywhere virtually equally much.

Sighting it in. Subsequently mounting the Thousand&Thousand, I threw in a few mags of Bioval .30g's and stepped out on the porch and proceeded to sight in the optic. This was pretty easy to do, and I didn't discover any backwards dials like some Chinese clones. A notable thing the replica doesn't have again is the lockout piece on the elevation knob. Not a big deal, as it's situated in an area where it's not probable to be bumped out of alignment anyhow.

I wound upwards noticing that there is a fair corporeality of wiggle in the optic that is independent of the base mount. This didn't seem to touch on nothing, but it was slightly abrasive. I remedied this past wedging in a slice of rubber in the front end surface area of the optic (you can see this in the photograph of the frontal views). No more wiggle.

Switching from 1x to 4x did not touch zero, nor should it, if information technology'due south been properly designed. I also removed and reinstalled the optic several times to exam for loss of nil and didn't discover any issues. All adept points in 1000&G's favor. Overall, sighting it in was a breeze.

In summation, rating key areas on a scale of 1 – 10, 10 being the all-time:

Structure, fit and finish – Score 8. Overall practiced, but there are some minor annoyances.

Optical clarity – Score 5. Sorry, only I'1000 spoiled on the real thing. This isn't even in the same league or stadium for that matter. Nevertheless it'south ameliorate than a clone ACOG though.

Optical field of view – Score 7. Ameliorate than a clone ACOG, simply not half of what the real deal offers.

Optical eye relief – Score nine. The absolute best eye relief I've seen in clone optics.

Reticule – Score nine. While not true to life, it is piece of cake to see and use.

Battery life – Northward/A. Also not really important because y'all can still employ the optic without the battery.

Red dot/Green dot function – Score 7. Not that many effulgence settings, and I found the greenish dot pretty much useless in wide daylight. It should exist used primarily as an aid in low light weather.

Toll/availability – Score four. At $199 shipped, this is one of the most expensive replica optics you can buy. Additionally, there are very, very few US retailers that bear this, and not too many foreign retailers either. I purchased this from www.fullautoairsoft.com (fantabulous service, btw) and had information technology in hand from New Jersey in three days. The store owners seemed pretty baffled equally to why this wasn't being carried elsewhere. Still information technology beats paying $2000+ for the real deal, nonetheless.

What it is: A neat optic that fills the role of a general purpose sight well – capable of reaching out at 4x, just also doing some nice close in piece of work too. A pretty good alternative to ruddy dot/magnifier set ups.

What it isn't: This should not exist used as a replacement for a red dot if all you know how to practise is run and operate red dot, and all your optical feel is based off of carmine dots. I also would not apply this nor trust this on my real steel. That would be like trying to brand Ford Pinto parts work on your Ferrari.

And some gun-porn to end with…